Go overnight

GEMMA TIPTON stays at The Morrison Hotel, in Dublin

GEMMA TIPTONstays at The Morrison Hotel, in Dublin

THE STAFF at the Morrison hotel are excellent. It was a sunny afternoon, and I wandered in through the stylish bar to be greeted by a genuinely friendly welcome, and an enquiry as to whether I had had a good journey. It all felt great, so why, when I opened my bedroom door, did my soul sink a little?

Based on the public areas, and also on the hotel’s PR (“probably the hippest and coolest luxury hotel in Dublin city centre”), I had been expecting something special. When the hotel opened in 1999, it was billed as John Rocha’s first interiors project. The design was influenced by Feng Shui, and it was all meant to give you an East-meets-West, best of both worlds, relaxing-yet-uplifting experience. The website tells guests about the “curved wall, which breaks up the squareness of the room to create balance and harmony. Our hotel beds stand on four legs allowing the air to circulate around the bed a hand-painted throw designed by John Rocha lies on each bed”.

Well, no, actually they don’t. The curved wall is there, and the bed still stands on four legs, but any hand-painted throw had long gone. As had most other splashes of colour, save the stains on the cream armchair. It felt dark and a bit grotty. The window was printed with fingermarks, the air conditioning trundled noisily on, and the message on the TV screen – “welcome Ms Tipton” – read like a threat.

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I rang reception and bleated something about hating connecting doors (I do), and wondering if I could have a room without one. “Certainly, we’ll move you right away.”

Down the corridor and round the corner, the new room was also grubby. The dark-veneered wood was chipped, the bed smaller, and there was a similar absence of hand-painted throw. This time there was a rip, as well as a stain, on the off-white armchair, and the bed gave out creaks and groans with every movement. Nevertheless, the room was definitely brighter – though sparse, rather than minimalist; the one bright touch in each room being the Clea van der Grijn paintings that fill the hotel.

I began to suspect the evil hand of the recession in things: the lack of stuff like a shower cap and one of those useless mending kits (which I always collect) reinforcing the impression. In the bathroom, the towels were tied together with brown ribbon, which seemed like a reminder of former glories. I had a bath, padded about in the bathrobe for a bit and then went down to the bar to meet a friend.

Breakfast the next day was excellent, with a huge choice of fruits, juices, pastries and other delicious hot and cold things. I had a very good espresso, and then another, and discovered that, contrary to my recessionary theories, the hotel was buzzing with people. Breakfast is served in Halo restaurant, which is bright and funky, cool yet energetic, and seems to achieve everything the hotel aims at.

While I waited to check out, international guests were being helped with their day’s itineraries, and others welcomed with the same excellent level of friendliness I had experienced. Learning that for €25 you can upgrade to a refurbished room, I asked if I could see one. These are much smarter affairs, and were designed by Grainne Weber rather than John Rocha. They have more colour but feel less unique than Rocha’s rooms once were. There are plans to refurbish every bedroom, but I was told that occupancy is so high they just aren’t getting the chance.

I also think that even if occupancy is high, reduced room rates give hoteliers less scope for upkeep. If I stayed again, I’d probably upgrade, though looking at the groovy guests hanging out in the lobby I’m not sure that they even noticed the cracks in the veneer.

  • Go overnights are reviewed anonymously and paid for by The Irish Times

WhereMorrison Hotel, Dublin, 01-8872400, morrisonhotel.ie.

WhatFour-star city centre hotel.

Rooms138 bedrooms, including suites and penthouse suite with Liffey views.

Best ratesFrom €99 per room, dinner BB packages available.

Restaurants and barsCafé Bar, Morrison Bar, Halo restaurant.

Child friendlinessChildren welcome.

AccessThree wheelchair-accessible rooms.

AmenitiesCity centre location. Parking €14 per 24 hours in nearby Jervis St. Free broadband. Business facilities. Access for guests to nearby leisure centre.